COCO CHANEL
Born in Saumur, France, on August 19, 1883, Gabrielle Chanel, called “Coco,” had a very humble and sad childhood, spent mostly in an orphanage.
Having lived in a monastic environment, according to some fashion experts, greatly influenced her style, often austere and with black and white predominant.
Gabrielle left the orphanage and enrolled in a school for domestic skills at Notre Dame. At 18, she began working in the Maison Grampaure di Moulin linen and knitwear shop, where she practiced the art of sewing she had learned from the nuns. In Paris, however, she also began working as a prostitute, as well as a singer in a café concert: this may have been where her stage name, Coco, comes from, after the song Qui qu'a vu Coco?, which she sang.
Her fashion career began in 1904, when she met Etienne de Balsan, who would later finance her business. Living in her lover's castle in Royallieu, she learned to appreciate equestrian style: another mood found in her most iconic garments. He supported her new passion, making hats: it was from here that Coco Chanel began to build her clientele.
Shortly thereafter, she met Boy Capel, her great love, with whom she lived in Paris. He believed in her so much that he advanced her the money to open a boutique at 21 Rue Cambon. She made not just hats, but also sweaters, skirts, and dresses. Further influences on her work came from the opening of a boutique in Deauville, where she drew inspiration from sailor attire. During the First World War, her shop was very popular, partly because it offered practical clothing suited to the new needs that had arisen.
Her career began to take off: in 1915, she opened a boutique in Biarritz, and in 1916, she purchased a batch of jersey, which she began using for her dresses—a true innovation that allowed her to expand her business the following year, which included two boutiques, five workshops, and 300 workers. Her name soon began to circulate in the artistic world, while in the 1920s, she launched the trend of short hair: she had burned her hair on a stove, cut off what was left, and thus a new trend was born.
1921 is the year of her perfume Chanel No. 5, which is still a must-have today!
The celebrated Chanel N°5 was created in 1921 by Ernest Beaux, and according to Coco's instructions, it was intended to embody a concept of timeless, unique, and captivating femininity. N°5 was innovative not only for the fragrance's structure, but also for the novelty of its name and the simplicity of its bottle. Chanel found the high-sounding perfume names of the time ridiculous, so much so that she decided to name her fragrance by a number, because it corresponded to the fifth olfactory proposal Ernest had made to her.
Unforgettable then, is Marilyn's famous statement when, asked to confess how and in what clothes she went to bed, she confessed: "With just two drops of Chanel No. 5", thus further projecting the name of the designer and her perfume into the history of costume.
The avant-garde bottle became famous for its minimalist design and emerald-cut cap. This "profile" was so successful that, since 1959, the bottle has been on display at the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
In 1926, she launched a garment that remains a timeless classic today: the little black dress, the petite robe noir. Two years later, she expanded her shop on Rue de Cambon, bringing it to number 31 and creating a three-story boutique. In 1927, she opened her own store in London. She introduced the garconniere style, a feminine look ideal for the dynamic, working woman. A true revolution. Coco Chanel wore knee-length skirts, lowered the waist, and proposed a masculine, nautical style: no one had dared so much before.
The 1920s and 1930s were defined by the lines and fashions invented by the designer. CHANEL not only revolutionized the world of fashion, but for the first time, she also elevated women and broke the thick veil that prevented women from being seen as equals to men. The quintessential detail of CHANEL style is the headpiece, where all her instinct and passion are unleashed, crowning the dresses that blend light, color, elegance, class, lightness, and personality. The "petite couturière" Coco is the queen of style and class, which she never renounces, lending uniqueness and originality to each of her creations. CHANEL is for all women. Always youthful and elegant, she gave women greater prominence in the world of work by combining a simple, masculine-cut jacket with a skirt, thus allowing the wearer to showcase her femininity.
The years of the Second World War were difficult, but in the 1950s she continued to amaze, with the tweed suit proposed with a knee-length skirt, short jacket and gold buttons.
Despite his absence from the scene, he managed to re-establish himself with ideas that are still a cult today, such as the 2.55 quilted handbag:
The sheath dress, the petit noir, was introduced to the market in 1926 and is considered the most important piece in the history of clothing. In 1932, Chanel launched a jewelry line, primarily based on diamonds, created in collaboration with Count Etienne de Beaumont and Duke Fulco di Ventura. CHANEL had reached the height of its fame, and its ateliers employed 4,000 people, while sales of CHANEL dresses were around 28,000 models a year. In 1939, however, the outbreak of World War II forced Coco Chanel to close her shop on Rue de Cambon, leaving only her perfume business afloat. After the war, Coco Chanel, accused of collaborating with the Nazis, chose to move to Switzerland and sell all the rights to the brand to Pierre Wertheimer.
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Chanel returned to Paris in 1953 to find the fashion scene dominated by the young designer Christian Dior.
Coco Chanel reunited with Pierre Wertheimer, regaining full ownership of the “CHANEL” brand. Their collaboration brought the house back to the forefront of the fashion world. CHANEL's new spring collection was a resounding success, and her knitted suit, which would later become famous thanks to Jacqueline Kennedy, was particularly acclaimed. Chanel received the prestigious Neiman Marcus Fashion Oscar, which she received in 1957 in Dallas. In 1965, Jacques Wertheimer succeeded his father Pierre at the helm of the company. Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at the age of 87.
After his death, the brand was managed by assistants, before passing in 1978 to Philippe Guibourgè, in 1980 to Ramone Esparza and in 1983 to Karl Lagerfeld, who was the creative director of the maison until his death.
She has now been replaced by Virginie Viard, Karl Lagerfeld's close collaborator for over 30 years.